Vrsovice, Bohemian, Alternative Culture and without Tourists
Vrsovice is a neighbourhood in Prague where you will encounter not many tourists. This is no wonder because there are virtually no sights; there are no museums, no 3-star restaurants, nothing worth seeing. But appearances are deceptive. There are indeed a few remarkable buildings: St. Wenceslas Church an example of functionalism, a ‘castle’ formerly surrounded by mulberry trees for silkworms breeding, the Koh-i-Noor factory and the Hussite church with an eye-catching tower.
The district is crammed with nineteenth-century apartment buildings and at first glance looks like a monotonous residential area. But it is a residential area with a Bohemian character and alternative culture. The dull streets have turned into lively meeting places; home to numerous bars, bistros, cafes, restaurants, shops and boutiques, each with its own character. The bustling heart of Vrsovice is Krymska, a sloping street that winds through part of the district. This is the place to be for a good night out; one pub next to the other. And every time you come, it seems as if new ones have opened.
Vrsovice and Krymska Street
Vrsovice offers a wide range of bars, cafes, vibrant nightlife and numerous festivals. Visit a few galleries or go to a vernissage, learn how to make your own clothes in a sewing workshop or enjoy an ice-cold Czech beer or a cup of coffee in one of the many beer gardens, bars and cafes. A must-go is: Plevel (Krymska 2) a restaurant specializing in vegan and raw food, based on Mexican, Indian and Italian cuisine. Focus on Krymska Street; there is always something going on from street parties to food truck festivals. It is ‘the place to be’!
Krymska is a street that you have to discover for yourself, but here are a few cool tips:
1. Bad Flash Bar (at number 2) about ten types of craft beer on tap and an innumerable number on bottle. Recommended bar snack: pickled cheese
2. Café v Lese (at number 12) much more than a cafe, every day there is something different going on concerts, shows, flea markets, discussion evenings.
3. Maler Bar (at number 26) cider from Czech soil
4. Sberne suroviny (at number 126) trendy bar with a perfect beer selection from local mini breweries.
5. Bar v Krymsky (at number 294) a secret but popular gem; perfect music, excellent cocktails, small and crowded but with the perfect vibe.
Saint Wenceslas Church
A church might not be very high on your Prague wish-list. But, while you’re in Vrsovice, Catholic Wenceslas church is worth a look. This functionalist building is an eye-catcher with its 7-meter-tall clock tower. Built in 1929, the church forms a stark contrast to the Gothic Saint Vitus near Prague Castle or the Baroque Saint Nicholas Church in Mala Strana. In the 1920s, the religious community in Vrsovice was numerous and on Sundays people attended mass in the Nicholas Church in Vrsovice, which turned out to be too small. A competition was launched for a design for a new church showing the best of modern Czech architecture. Josef Gocar’s design was chosen from 52 competing designs.
There are three St. Nicholas churches in Prague: one in Malostranske namesti in the Mala Strana district, another in Old Town Square in the Stare Mesto district and the one in Vrsovicke namesti in the Vrsovice district.
Address: Svatopluka Cecha 3
Vrsovice Castle: Rangherka
Rangherka is not a classic a castle, it has no drawbridge, battlements or moat! The Czech word for this building is ‘zamek’, which is more similar to English manor or country house. It all started with a silk merchant, Giuseppe Rangheri, from Italy. In the mid-nineteenth century he came to Vrsovice, at the time not yet part of Prague, planted mulberry trees, bred silkworms and produces silk. After Rangheri’s death, the castle changed hands many times. In the years 1899 – 1900, the building was renovated in neo-renaissance style. The west wing towers were removed, and a hexagonal tower with a pavilion was added. It now began to look like a real castle. A small park was laid out on a slope in front of the building and a staircase leading up to the entrance. Over the time, the building was used for various purposes. Until 1974, it was a school and after that it was the town hall of the Vrsovice district. Today, it is a retirement home.
Address: Moskevska 21
Koh-i-Noor Factory
The Koh-i-Noor haberdashery factory was built in 1902. The most famous product is the press studs with the trademark of a female face with a press stud on the right eye.
The company was founded by two Jewish brothers, Jindrich and Sigmund Waldes and was known as Waldes. The company was successful and in no time conquered the international market, turning the owners into millionaires almost overnight. In 1939, when Hitler invaded former Czechoslavia, the brothers lost everything they had worked so hard for; their property was confiscated. Sigmund sought safety in New York while Jindrich stayed in Prague and was transferred to Buchenwald concentration camp. He was released in 1942, but died on his way to America. The Koh-i-Noor brand still exists.
The Koh-i-Noor factory building is now owned by the millionaire Vaclav Skala who plans to build 600 apartments in the area surrounding the former factory. Since the building is a listed monument, the factory halls will be renovated and will serve as shops and offices. Apartment buildings will be built in the area around the factory. Construction will start in 2022 when all permits will have been granted.
Hussite Church
The Hussite Church is a striking building mainly because of its tower that resembles a lighthouse with a chalice and a cross on top of it. The tower is a beacon to the way up, the way to eternity. The building contains a small theatre, orchestra pit and dressing rooms, and offices. Other activities in the building include a film club, and a hall for lectures and other cultural activities. This multi-functional building also houses pensioners. Part of the space is rented to a bank branch.
The Hussites were inspired by Jan Hus and pursued both social and religious reforms. Hus’s teachings contain Protestant, Catholic and Eastern Orthodox elements.
Eden Shopping Centre
With only 80 stores, Eden Shopping Centre is small by Prague standards. Still, Eden has a lot to offer. For starters, the Tesco hypermarket is open 24 hours. The other shops also have generous opening hours, seven days a week from nine in the morning to nine in the evening. Shopping here is a pleasure because there are many lesser known shops such as Kabelky (bags and suitcases), Madonna and Magic Helena (women’s fashion), Datart (electronics), Bambule (toys), Tescoma (pots and pans). Eden is three floors of sheer shopping pleasure.
Address: U Slavie 1527
Vrsovice Football Stadium
Vrsovice has two professional football teams: SK Slavia Prague and Bohemians 1905. Slavia plays in the Sinobo Stadium, the largest football stadium in the Czech Republic and the Bohemians 1905 in the Dolicek Stadium.
Sinobo Stadium (old name Eden Arena) has a total capacity of 20,800 places. It is part of the multifunctional Eden complex, which consists of a number of training fields with natural grass and artificial grass, an athletics stadium, a rugby field, a swimming pool, a hockey and handball field and various sports halls. Dolicek is much smaller. You can buy tickets online about three weeks before the match or three days in advance at the sales office in the stadium itself.
Address Sinobo: U Slavie 2a
Address Dolicek: Vrsovicka 31
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photos wiki commons